HISTORY OF THE CASTLES OF CANNERO
The history of the Castles of Cannero through the drawings of FORTUNATO TAMI (1875-1942)
There
is a very interesting story behing the ruins that emerge from the
waters of the Lago Maggiore in front of the town of Cannero, at the
edges of its territory and of the parochy of Cannobio. A history of
blood, unheard of cruelty, massacres, pillaging and barbaric events. The
bibliography of these events is a rich one and anyone can consult it.
We’re
at the beginning at the XVth century. Duke Gian Galeazzo Visconti has
recently died in Milan and under his predecessor the various factions
are unleashed and disorder and crime of all kinds follow.
In
our area two families are fighting, the Rusconi for the ghibellina side
and the Vitani for the guelfa side. The two families were based in Como
but they operated in a vast area reaching as far as Lago Maggiore.
At
Cannobio they followed the guelfa side, or the Vitani, the families
Mantelli, Cervetti, Zacchei and some others and almost the entire
village of Cinzago, then very populated. Taking the ghibellina side the
families of the Mazzironi, Poscolonna, Dal Sasso Carmine and almost all
other families in Cannobio and Pieve.
It
was in this period that in Cannobio there were five brothers of the
Mazzardita family, more precisely: Giovanolo, Beltramino, Simonello,
Petrolo also called Sinasso and Antonio called Carmagnola. These
brothers were the sons of Lanfranco Mazzardi, butcher at Ronco of
Cannobio.
The
shameful acts of these five brothers started around 1402 or 1403.
Having taken Cannobio by force, not having a castle they arranged the
tall and strong belltower with the nearby Palazzo della Ragione (Palace
of reason) to function as a fortress. And so they began every sort of
persecution against the guelfi of the city and of Pieve, looting,
destroying and burning their homes, cutting their lives short and
murdering many of the guelfa side. Furthermore many were imprisoned in
the belltower and confronted with torture and violence.
When
they wanted to take a nice house or terrain they would pretend to buy
it from the owner even going so far as to pay them. However, after
having concluded and signed the deed in presence of a notary they would
have the seller captured by their henchmen and have the paid sum taken
back from them. In case of resistance they would imprison and murder the
unfortunate seller.
They
frequently violated married and nubile women especially if they were
part of a guelfa family. They even went so far as to kidnap the wife of
the Podestà of Cannobio, a certain Giacomo Pozzi jurisconsult of
Vigevano, they dragged her to S. Agata where they violated her and
locked her in prison.
The
Mazzarditi brothers then spread their tyranny and depravity to other
centers of Lago Maggiore and took numrous prisoners to Cannobio, locked
them in the belltower of San Vittore, made them undergo atrocious
torments and kill them with a blow to the head with a bat, quarter them,
skin them with the help of hired hands or hang them by the neck from
trees at the edges of the roads so that passersby could see the bodies
swaying in the wind. Many prisoners were drowned in the lake, others
thrown in the river from the high bridge of the Agostana – where today
the bridge of the Orrido of S. Anna is located – others still thrown
into the lake from the Sasso of Carmine.
One
day they killed ten, almost all from Ascona and the neighbouring areas,
tied the bodies with a great rope and dragged them, bound together,
through the streets of the town upto the shore of the lake and with a
big rock tied to their necks threw them into the water. As luck would
have the bodies of those unlucky souls were then found on the shore of
Germignaga and were buried in a sacred place.
To
better dominate Cannobio and the nearby populations under their tyranny
they had a castle built on a cliff che rose out of the water in front
of the Cannero beach and was called the Castle of the Malpaga where
Antonio also called Carmagnola would reside. The construction of the
castle was left to the inhabitants of the area without any compensation.
The stones were removed from the destroyed villages in the area.
All
those who travelled through the area were forced to pay extremely high
tolls or pay for their resistance with their lives. They extended their
kidnappings to the areas of Angera and Arona and all the populations of
the Verbano area were in danger of indescribable terror. The victims of
those brigands ranged in the hundreds and every family was in mourning.
The
Duke Filippo Maria Visconti in 1412 sent an army of roughly 500 men
against them under the command of Giacomo Lunati, captain and nobleman
from Milan, and after a long siege the Malpaga Castle surrendered and
the Mazzarditi brothers obtained as a condition to save their lives and
keep their goods. The surrender came in march of 1414.
In
1459 a trial begun, started by Pietro and Giovanni Mantelli, against
Giovanni Pietro and Giovan Matteo Mazzardi, sons of one of the five
Mazzarditi brothers who brought so much destruction into the lives if
the guelfi people of Cannobio.
In
october 1519 as desired by count Lodovico Borromeo, lord of Cannobio,
on the ruins of the Malpaga the construction of a new castle started,
completed in 1521 and named “Vitaliana” by the first name of its
illustrious tribe.
And
here are the latin verses and words which could be read on a marble
plate inserted into a wall on the eastern side of the castle:
Ingredere et specta, mi hospes, tecumque revolve,
quae sit in adversis virtus, quaecumque rigenti
iuncta vides saxo, factum laudante fideli
Helvetio, mediis fortunae in fluctibus egit
Vitalianorum Ludovicus vera propago.
Anno sal. MDXXI
Solent
non ignavi homines apta suis studiis loca dilignter esquirre; hunc idei
sibi Luduvicus Borromeus elegit, ut fortunae tela vitaret. Facta sunt
fundamenta 1519, VI Octobris ante diem divae Justinae Vitalianae ob
memoriam antiquae originis.
A second inscription is found on the western side on a marble slate and this inscription is quoted by Leandri and Morigia. Here’s the text:
Vitaliana vocor Verbani turris in undis
Edita, primaevae nomina stirpis habens.
Me Luduvicus sic Borromaeus in altum
Extulit, ut pateat Vitalianus Honos:
Simque locus fidis semper patefactus amicis;
Hostibus at nostris sim moribunda lues.
The following words are added to the verses in latin, which can be understood by anyone with a basic knowledge of foreign languages:
Si duplicis cognominis causam forte requiris, lector,
Scito illustrem Borromaeorum Comitum prosapiam
A Vitaliano Matavino olim Italiae Rege et Divae
Justinae genitore suam traxisse originem.
Vale et quod Domino turris auguralis id tibi veniat.
In
1523 the peace of this new castle was broken by the noise of weaponry.
In fact Anchise Visconte, valorous captain and governor Lago Maggiore,
by order of Duke Francesco II Sforza had lain siege to the castle. The
motives for these events were due to the fact that Count Lodovico
Borromeo had been expelled from the State of Milan because he was
considered a rebel for supporting the king of France Francesco I who was
warring at that time with the Sforza. It should be noted that at that
time Borromeo was not the only lord supporting the king of France.
The siege carried on until 1524 but yielded no results for captain Anchise Visconte.
In
fact the swiss, friends of count Borromeo and king Francesco I of
France, sustained the sieged castle with food and weapons taking
advantage of the darkness of the night and the strong winds which kept
those laying siege, not very practical with the heavy weather and
currents on the lake, from interrupting the aiding operations of the
swiss.
But
not just the friends of neighbouring Switzerland had come to assist
Count Lodovico Borromeo. Also the inhabitants of Cannero more than once
gave their assistance to those under siege. Historians of the time in
fact told of the fact that Anchise Visconte, before breaking off the
siege on the heavily supplied castle, had almost burned all the lands of
Cannero as a ferocious punishment against those populations who had
dared to assist the castle.
From
this castle on the morning of the 10th of january 1522 the Borromeo
counts departed for Cannobio to observe and worship the Miracle of
Cannobio which had been occurring since two days in the osteria Tomaso
Zacchei. The counts themselves were present during one of the many
miraculous showings in the humble osteria.
And
now of these castles we see nothing but ruins if little more. In fact
for too many years the constructions have been abandoned to time and the
elements. It’s a real shame that the cliffs that rise out of the clear
Verbano waters, in one of the most charming areas of our beautiful
Italy, remain abandoned, silent, inhospitable.
***
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